BLEDHUX
EXPERT FIRE FIGHTING ROBOT
Electrical Engineering Department
Universitas Surabaya
The Best Innovation of Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2005
BLEDHUX is four-omni-wheeled robot, was designed to participate in the first Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2005, in Expert Division. The name BLEDHUX came from word BLEDHUG, means elephant's child in Javanesse dialect in Indonesia. Rules between senior division and expert division are completely different, including changing maze at the second story from run to run. There are four taks that have to be achieved on each run, which are put out two lit candles, mark the location of baby at the second story (using beeper), and going up and down on ramp. This robot was build by Anton Mutiara, Adi Sugiarto, and Ekawahyu Susilo (as the instuctor). Their use ultrasound sensors to detect distance between robot and each four side of wall to the robot, infrared sensor to detect flame direction, UVTron to alocate flame, small water pump and hose to extinguish the fire. Three months of working in the lab was not long enough to make this robot perfectly running in the maze and complete all tasks. Anyway, here they are with all of their efforts, try to make everydays are filled by new innovation in technology.
Selasa, 17 Mei 2011
A R A C H N I D
A R A C H N I D
Four-Legged Fire Fighting Walking Robot
Electrical Engineering Department
Universitas Surabaya
First Place on Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004 (legged category)
Best Innovation on Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004 (all category)
Balairung Kampus Universitas Indonesia
Depok July, 10th-11th, 2004
What is Arachnid?
Arachnid is a class name of animal (arachnida) who has 4 pairs of legs, breath at an open air for oxygen, has simple two or more eyes, but doesn't have wings like insect. The way they eat is sucking liquid and also inject a small amount of "disgestive liquid" to their prey to melt hard tissue become liquid. Anthropod that classify as Arachida are spiders, scorpions, and crabs. Arachnid is not insect because insect has only 6 legs.
Arachnid the robot is made similar in shape as arachnida has but the number of leg reduce into two pairs. The segmentation of the body also not completely show where the head is, the body, or the tail. Some limitation must be made here in order to make the movement more flexible and the robot itself can be programmed easily. This Arachnid can be program to walk like a spider, a crab, or a scorpion by simply change the walking routine program in the program memory of microcontroller.
Arachnid Team
Arachnid is invented and well design by a team which consist of a lecturer (it's me) as instructor and 2 students as a team leader and a member. They are Ekawahyu Susilo, Maryanto, and Anton Mutiara. The aim of team was made is participating in Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004, Fire Fighting Robot, legged category.
Ekawahyu Susilo, Anton Mutiara, and Maryanto
Arachnid and Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004
Indonesia Robot Contest has been held to show capability and creativity of regional students every year and Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest was held for the first time in 2004 in addition of Indonesia Robot Contest 2004 event. IIRC2004 held by Direktorat Jendral Pendidikan Tinggi whiches adopt original rules of Trinity College Fire Fighting Robot Contest, USA. This rules cover the limitation of dimension, game field design that part into four rooms, size of candle, penalty score if the robot touch or scratch walls, minimum range to put out the candle, etc. Base on that rules, we design Arachnid to hear a fire alarm at about 3.5kHz, automaticaly search for a lit candle in rooms, put it out, and back to home base soon. Along traveling, Arachnid senses walls from 15-20cm distance so it might not touch or scratch walls.
Two categories in IIRC2004 are wheeled robot and legged robot, competed for a chance to fight internationaly on April 2005 at Trinity College. EVO-113 from Politeknik Bandung get a first place in IIRC2004, wheeled category, while Arachnid win a fisrt place in legged category and also have an honor as The Best Innovation Robot for all category.
Microcontroller
Intelligent, always build by an algorithm, that lay inside of microcontroller. The type of microcontroller of Arachnid compatible with MCS51 family, AT89S51. This type of microcontroller is very cheap and powerfull in any industrial application. The letter 'S' in the middle of the it's type show that this controller facilitate In System Programmable (ISP) program memory. Can be programmed inside the mainboard.
Motor R/C Servo
As the actuator and the body shape, 12 pieces of R/C Servo, constructed as a main structure of Arachnid. Those servos are divide into 4 legs, so each leg is able to move in 3 degree of freedom (3 DOF). We use HITEC HS-322HD which operate at 5 volt dc on 3 kg of torque.
Infrared Range Sensor
To avoid collision and obstacles (including walls), range sensor are needed to measure range between the robot and obstacles. The range are variable and should be setup initialy in the range from 10 mm to 200 mm. Arachnid use 5 range sensor, front, back, left, right, and bottom to compare white and black color on the floor.
Fire Sensor
Fire can be detected it presence using two ways, the light and the temperature. More specific , the light itself classify as infrared light. IR-photodiode is one of the sensor that fit our need. While searching for a lit candle, Arachnid scan every room 180 degree in front of and capture range 60 cm radial.
Another option to detect a lit candle is using UVTron, specific fire's ultraviolet sensor. So, in spite of infrared sensor, Arachnid also armed with ultraviolet sensor.
Sound Activation
Another challanging topic that given in the contest is an extra score if the robot can "hear" the fire alarm and start automaticaly to find fire in rooms. The fire alarm itself has to be a generic one that may have spectrum between 3kHz to 4kHz. We decide to detect the midlle frequency and spread the bandwith over 1kHz. So, all spectrum are well covered. Electret Condenser Microphone (ECM) is the basic component to hear this alarm but the signal still too weak. We need a small signal amplifier using transistor and a tone decoder LM567.
Extinguisher
In order to extinguish the fire (represent by a lit candle), Arachnid carry a small dc motor plus a very aerodynamic slim propeller (especialy design for aeromodeling plane). This extinguisher is controlled directly by microcontroller using the right program and algorithm to earn high speed of blown air.
Arachnid The Book
We currently wirte a book of Arachnid. Soon we will publish it. All source code and complete patern of designing this robot will be given freely on this website. Hopefully worth to future establishment in robotics, particularly among creators.
Four-Legged Fire Fighting Walking Robot
Electrical Engineering Department
Universitas Surabaya
First Place on Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004 (legged category)
Best Innovation on Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004 (all category)
Balairung Kampus Universitas Indonesia
Depok July, 10th-11th, 2004
What is Arachnid?
Arachnid is a class name of animal (arachnida) who has 4 pairs of legs, breath at an open air for oxygen, has simple two or more eyes, but doesn't have wings like insect. The way they eat is sucking liquid and also inject a small amount of "disgestive liquid" to their prey to melt hard tissue become liquid. Anthropod that classify as Arachida are spiders, scorpions, and crabs. Arachnid is not insect because insect has only 6 legs.
Arachnid the robot is made similar in shape as arachnida has but the number of leg reduce into two pairs. The segmentation of the body also not completely show where the head is, the body, or the tail. Some limitation must be made here in order to make the movement more flexible and the robot itself can be programmed easily. This Arachnid can be program to walk like a spider, a crab, or a scorpion by simply change the walking routine program in the program memory of microcontroller.
Arachnid Team
Arachnid is invented and well design by a team which consist of a lecturer (it's me) as instructor and 2 students as a team leader and a member. They are Ekawahyu Susilo, Maryanto, and Anton Mutiara. The aim of team was made is participating in Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004, Fire Fighting Robot, legged category.
Arachnid and Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest 2004
Indonesia Robot Contest has been held to show capability and creativity of regional students every year and Indonesia Intelligent Robot Contest was held for the first time in 2004 in addition of Indonesia Robot Contest 2004 event. IIRC2004 held by Direktorat Jendral Pendidikan Tinggi whiches adopt original rules of Trinity College Fire Fighting Robot Contest, USA. This rules cover the limitation of dimension, game field design that part into four rooms, size of candle, penalty score if the robot touch or scratch walls, minimum range to put out the candle, etc. Base on that rules, we design Arachnid to hear a fire alarm at about 3.5kHz, automaticaly search for a lit candle in rooms, put it out, and back to home base soon. Along traveling, Arachnid senses walls from 15-20cm distance so it might not touch or scratch walls.
Two categories in IIRC2004 are wheeled robot and legged robot, competed for a chance to fight internationaly on April 2005 at Trinity College. EVO-113 from Politeknik Bandung get a first place in IIRC2004, wheeled category, while Arachnid win a fisrt place in legged category and also have an honor as The Best Innovation Robot for all category.
Microcontroller
Intelligent, always build by an algorithm, that lay inside of microcontroller. The type of microcontroller of Arachnid compatible with MCS51 family, AT89S51. This type of microcontroller is very cheap and powerfull in any industrial application. The letter 'S' in the middle of the it's type show that this controller facilitate In System Programmable (ISP) program memory. Can be programmed inside the mainboard.
Motor R/C Servo
As the actuator and the body shape, 12 pieces of R/C Servo, constructed as a main structure of Arachnid. Those servos are divide into 4 legs, so each leg is able to move in 3 degree of freedom (3 DOF). We use HITEC HS-322HD which operate at 5 volt dc on 3 kg of torque.
Infrared Range Sensor
To avoid collision and obstacles (including walls), range sensor are needed to measure range between the robot and obstacles. The range are variable and should be setup initialy in the range from 10 mm to 200 mm. Arachnid use 5 range sensor, front, back, left, right, and bottom to compare white and black color on the floor.
Fire Sensor
Fire can be detected it presence using two ways, the light and the temperature. More specific , the light itself classify as infrared light. IR-photodiode is one of the sensor that fit our need. While searching for a lit candle, Arachnid scan every room 180 degree in front of and capture range 60 cm radial.
Another option to detect a lit candle is using UVTron, specific fire's ultraviolet sensor. So, in spite of infrared sensor, Arachnid also armed with ultraviolet sensor.
Sound Activation
Another challanging topic that given in the contest is an extra score if the robot can "hear" the fire alarm and start automaticaly to find fire in rooms. The fire alarm itself has to be a generic one that may have spectrum between 3kHz to 4kHz. We decide to detect the midlle frequency and spread the bandwith over 1kHz. So, all spectrum are well covered. Electret Condenser Microphone (ECM) is the basic component to hear this alarm but the signal still too weak. We need a small signal amplifier using transistor and a tone decoder LM567.
Extinguisher
In order to extinguish the fire (represent by a lit candle), Arachnid carry a small dc motor plus a very aerodynamic slim propeller (especialy design for aeromodeling plane). This extinguisher is controlled directly by microcontroller using the right program and algorithm to earn high speed of blown air.
Arachnid The Book
We currently wirte a book of Arachnid. Soon we will publish it. All source code and complete patern of designing this robot will be given freely on this website. Hopefully worth to future establishment in robotics, particularly among creators.
Memelihara Arowana
Apa yang perlu disediakan:
1. Ukuran akuarium ideal P x L x T = 150 x 60 x 70 cm
2. Lampu UV (sebagai lampu penerang akuarium)
3. Filter air, dapat menggunakan salah satu dari berikut :
* Filter terbuka (top filter dan filter tank)
* Filter tabung (Canister)
4. Media filter (bergantung pada kapasiti air aquarium anda) kapas, biofoam, bioball, karbon aktif dan zeolit.
5. Thermometer.
6. Aerator AC/DC
7. Heater (hanya digunakan sebagai P3K saat ikan terkena jamur/mata kabur dan set pada suhu 32ºC)
8. Garam Ikan.
9. Power Head (bila diperlukan).
10. Fish net (yg halus) atau selang ukuran 5/8 inch dapat digunakan untuk mengambil kotoran ikan.
11. Tutup akuarium, supaya ikan arowana tidak melompat keluar.
Tips:
* Ketebalan kaca akuarium minimal 10 mm - 12mm.
* Rendam akuarium dengan air garam (± 20 gram/100 liter) sekurang2nya 2 kali sampai bau silikon hilang.
* Gunakan heater hanya utk merawat ikan arowana yang sakit.
* Jangan gunakan fish net jika telah digunakan pada ikan sakit di akuarium.
* Rendam fish net dengan air garam ± 30 detik kemudian keringkan setelah digunakan.
* Masukkan garam ± 20 gram (1 genggam) per 200 liter ke dalam air akuarium sebelum ikan masuk.
* Gunakan lampu UV terbaik untuk memaksimalkan / menaikan warna ikan.
Tips Menyediakan air untuk arowana
Tahap atau cara Pengisian air akuarium baru:
Cara I :
1. Rendam akuarium baru dengan air dan garam ikan (satu genggam/20 gram per 100 lt air) selama satu malam
2. Buang air endapan semalam dan ulangi sekali lagi
3. Isi air akuarium dan beri aerasi (gelembung air / oxigen air pump)
4. Tambahkan garam ikan (satu genggam per 200 lt air)
5. Akuarium telah siap digunakan untuk masuk ikan baru
Cara II:
1. Rendam akuarium dengan air dan karbon aktif (1 kg karbon aktif/100 ltr air) selama satu malam
(karbon aktif dimasukkan dalam bekas atau kantong kemasan/kasa)
2. Buang air endapan semalam
3. Keringkan akuarium
4. Isi air akuarium dan beri oxigen (gelembung air)
5. Tambahkan garam ikan (satu genggam per 200 lt air)
6. Akuarium telah siap digunakan untuk masuk ikan baru
Tips:
* Karbon aktif yg telah terpakai untuk perendaman jangan dibuang
* Karbon aktif dapat digunakan sebagai media filter di akuarium
* Masa menjalankan rawatan untuk ikan yg sakit karbon aktif sebaiknya dikeluarkan dari filter media
* Jangan gunakan garam dapur/ beryodium untuk perendaman
* Akuarium baru jangan TERUS diisi dengan ikan sebelum melalui proses perendaman terlebih dahulu.
Tips Memelihara Arowana
MENGATASI IKAN BENGONG
Gejala awal:
1. Ikan tidak ada nafsu makan
2. Ikan tidak terlalu aktif
3. Jangka waktu lama warna ikan pudar/pucat
4. Berdiam diri di dasr
5. Tidak meberi respon seperti biasa
Penyebab:
1. Suhu air dibawah 28º C
2. Perbezaan pH air terlalu jauh. pH arowana 6,5 - 8
3. Memberi makan yg berlebih
4. Mutasi ikan ke akuarium baru
5. Perbezaan parameter air masa penukaran air
6. Kadar nitrit, nitrat dan amonia tidak normal
7. Kualiti air yg teruk (kotor)
8. Air tidak diganti dalam jangka waktu yg lama
9. Media filter tidak pernah di bersihkan
10. Ruang akuarium terlalu besar/kecil bagi ikan
Pencegahan:
1. Jangan beri makan berlebihan
2. Akuarium jangan dipukul-pukul / ketuk
3. Matikan lampu akuarium setelah 12 jam
4. Letak akuarium ditempat yang sunyi atau kurang orang lalu lalang
Cara mengobati:
1. Pasang heater dan naikkan suhu menjadi 32º C
2. Pasang arus (power head) bersesuaian dengan kapasiti air
3. Berikan ikan kawan @ tankmate (kaviat, Sumatra atau pink tail)
4. Ganti air 25% dengan air baru yg diendapkan
5. Pindahkan ikan tersebut ke akuarium lain dengan ukuran lebih besar
Tips:
* Jika ikan bengong dan tidak ada hafsu makan,berikan arowana vital sesuai dengan aturan pemakanan yg tetap.
* Tambahkan arowana 4 ekor dengan ukuran yg sama apabila akuarium cukup besar
1. Ukuran akuarium ideal P x L x T = 150 x 60 x 70 cm
2. Lampu UV (sebagai lampu penerang akuarium)
3. Filter air, dapat menggunakan salah satu dari berikut :
* Filter terbuka (top filter dan filter tank)
* Filter tabung (Canister)
4. Media filter (bergantung pada kapasiti air aquarium anda) kapas, biofoam, bioball, karbon aktif dan zeolit.
5. Thermometer.
6. Aerator AC/DC
7. Heater (hanya digunakan sebagai P3K saat ikan terkena jamur/mata kabur dan set pada suhu 32ºC)
8. Garam Ikan.
9. Power Head (bila diperlukan).
10. Fish net (yg halus) atau selang ukuran 5/8 inch dapat digunakan untuk mengambil kotoran ikan.
11. Tutup akuarium, supaya ikan arowana tidak melompat keluar.
Tips:
* Ketebalan kaca akuarium minimal 10 mm - 12mm.
* Rendam akuarium dengan air garam (± 20 gram/100 liter) sekurang2nya 2 kali sampai bau silikon hilang.
* Gunakan heater hanya utk merawat ikan arowana yang sakit.
* Jangan gunakan fish net jika telah digunakan pada ikan sakit di akuarium.
* Rendam fish net dengan air garam ± 30 detik kemudian keringkan setelah digunakan.
* Masukkan garam ± 20 gram (1 genggam) per 200 liter ke dalam air akuarium sebelum ikan masuk.
* Gunakan lampu UV terbaik untuk memaksimalkan / menaikan warna ikan.
Tips Menyediakan air untuk arowana
Tahap atau cara Pengisian air akuarium baru:
Cara I :
1. Rendam akuarium baru dengan air dan garam ikan (satu genggam/20 gram per 100 lt air) selama satu malam
2. Buang air endapan semalam dan ulangi sekali lagi
3. Isi air akuarium dan beri aerasi (gelembung air / oxigen air pump)
4. Tambahkan garam ikan (satu genggam per 200 lt air)
5. Akuarium telah siap digunakan untuk masuk ikan baru
Cara II:
1. Rendam akuarium dengan air dan karbon aktif (1 kg karbon aktif/100 ltr air) selama satu malam
(karbon aktif dimasukkan dalam bekas atau kantong kemasan/kasa)
2. Buang air endapan semalam
3. Keringkan akuarium
4. Isi air akuarium dan beri oxigen (gelembung air)
5. Tambahkan garam ikan (satu genggam per 200 lt air)
6. Akuarium telah siap digunakan untuk masuk ikan baru
Tips:
* Karbon aktif yg telah terpakai untuk perendaman jangan dibuang
* Karbon aktif dapat digunakan sebagai media filter di akuarium
* Masa menjalankan rawatan untuk ikan yg sakit karbon aktif sebaiknya dikeluarkan dari filter media
* Jangan gunakan garam dapur/ beryodium untuk perendaman
* Akuarium baru jangan TERUS diisi dengan ikan sebelum melalui proses perendaman terlebih dahulu.
Tips Memelihara Arowana
MENGATASI IKAN BENGONG
Gejala awal:
1. Ikan tidak ada nafsu makan
2. Ikan tidak terlalu aktif
3. Jangka waktu lama warna ikan pudar/pucat
4. Berdiam diri di dasr
5. Tidak meberi respon seperti biasa
Penyebab:
1. Suhu air dibawah 28º C
2. Perbezaan pH air terlalu jauh. pH arowana 6,5 - 8
3. Memberi makan yg berlebih
4. Mutasi ikan ke akuarium baru
5. Perbezaan parameter air masa penukaran air
6. Kadar nitrit, nitrat dan amonia tidak normal
7. Kualiti air yg teruk (kotor)
8. Air tidak diganti dalam jangka waktu yg lama
9. Media filter tidak pernah di bersihkan
10. Ruang akuarium terlalu besar/kecil bagi ikan
Pencegahan:
1. Jangan beri makan berlebihan
2. Akuarium jangan dipukul-pukul / ketuk
3. Matikan lampu akuarium setelah 12 jam
4. Letak akuarium ditempat yang sunyi atau kurang orang lalu lalang
Cara mengobati:
1. Pasang heater dan naikkan suhu menjadi 32º C
2. Pasang arus (power head) bersesuaian dengan kapasiti air
3. Berikan ikan kawan @ tankmate (kaviat, Sumatra atau pink tail)
4. Ganti air 25% dengan air baru yg diendapkan
5. Pindahkan ikan tersebut ke akuarium lain dengan ukuran lebih besar
Tips:
* Jika ikan bengong dan tidak ada hafsu makan,berikan arowana vital sesuai dengan aturan pemakanan yg tetap.
* Tambahkan arowana 4 ekor dengan ukuran yg sama apabila akuarium cukup besar
Dragon fish
Guide to Tanning
Part 1: The Beginning of a New Start
Conditioning - it would be best to add some K leaves into the tank and increase the lighting intensity gradually over the days...users could use 3 / 6 / 9 / 12 / 24 hrs intervals as a guiding point
Slime Coat Observation - Slime coat is a physical marker for tanning users to observe the stress level of the reds in the tanning process...if users notice a substantial loss of slime coat, its best to add in some aloe vera extract or epsom salt in terms of restoring the protective coating for the reds
Part 2: The When, Where, What and How to go about Tanning
Size suitable for tanning - there is no specific sizes which is the minimum or maximum age for tanning. As long as there is a sign for blushing of colors can be observed on the red, it is deemed to be suitable for tanning.
Position and angle of lights - the recommended position and angle of tanning lights is at the front of the tank, about 5cm under water...or the best level to place the light is the zone where the red frequently swims
Types of tanning lights to use - there are various lights tat can be utilise for the purpose of tanning...namely to mention a few: Arcadia D3, PL lights, Dennerle plant tubes, T5HO and Metal Halide sets. Primarily it would be advisable to start with a PL light set as it is not too intense as the last few lights mentioned...
Part 3: Push up and Hold Up the colors
Push up colors - if the process of Identifying the color blush stage is accurate, tanning will enhance the process and quicken the process of coloration fill up...Fast or slow depends on the spectrum and intensity of tubes used
Hold Up of colors - Tanning is a stimulating process for the reds to enhance production of chromatophores...in layers and in terms of intensity...it is making use of the concept of contrasting...ie. it makes the base colors of the red intensity hence enabling the better distinction between the rim color and the scale base...Tanning process must not be abruptly halt or else users may see the immediate fade of the colors which was "pushed up" previously...all things being equal...it has to be slowed down and reduce in intensity until finally back to the use of normal room light to ensure the proper acclimatising and stablising of colors
Part 4: Frequent Encounters of problems if technique is used wrongly
Slant swimming posture - If the red is not accustomed to the lights to be used, users may observed their red swimming in a slant manner...the only way to counter this measure is to put a light tube at the back of the tank shinning front to make the two sides of the aro gets even lighting
Cloudy Eyes - this is one of the comments passed by a user, personally during my experiment with >10 pcs of reds altogether, it has never occurred. The primary assumptions which users must establish is to have Good water parameters. Cloudy eyes generally is associated with physical scratches or bad water conditions
Appetite Loss - This again has to do with the way the users acclimatise their reds to the tanning regime...if suddenly intensified lights are shone at them, weak-hearted reds will display stress and lose their appetite altogether
Blind?? - This is one of the commonly asked question with regards to the tanning regime...please bear in mind fish sleep with their eyes open...internally there would be filters to block off the excessive lights which may damaged their "cornea" (if they have one - sorry I am not a biologist cannot confirm on the cornea thingy)...up to date I have tested with various light set not exceeding 10,000 lumens equivalent of brightness, going beyond tat range I cannot guarantee safety...the general mkt equipment of PL, T8, T5 all falls below tat marking
Part 5: Additives and special tools
Ketapang leaves - these are needed in terms of the initial kick start process as the tanins within the leaves will slowly emit and allow the readjustment of the water parameters to one tat favours the reds
S7 - commonly used in the planted community together with TR7 so as to provide trace elements in the enclosed tank. This is also common with those trying to enhance the appetite of the reds (reds being picky eaters will be choosy and temperaments changes as they grow)
Bubbles - is used as general guide on how the tank water fares...too much foam on the water level is an indicative sign of potentially bad water...suspended sediments or particles likewise
Epsom Salt - Initial clinical use is to assist the fish to clear their stomach...it is also helpful in regeneration of slim coat on the scales...should not be used excessively...only when there are suspected "dryness" on the scales observed
Part 6: Myths and Fairy Tales
Color in 1 day?? - this is one of most tricky part of tanning which many would swear and curse...cos some would see their red deepening in terms of 1 week or 2 weeks or some in 3 mths no effect even when they are doing the same thing
the general rule of thumb as observed from the tanning experiment, a "normal" SR should come in color within 3 weeks...excluding the time u need to recondition the red if it was in a bad water parameters and ur current tank settings is one tat varies from day to day
If someone tells u they can push color in a day, they are playing with timing...cos one red tat shows sporadic coloration (spots along the rims of their scales) is easier to push than one tat is super whitish in base and scale
the tanning lights merely helps to PUSH out the color, the chromatophores is already existing there to be expounded on
Turn Red after tanning? - I have started tanning experiment in aid to give those so called Cannot Make It reds...its not a magical trick or Photoshop tactics
What tanning done is to amplify the melanophores (black pigments) on the scales making whatever light yellow to dark yellow, light orange to dark orange, light pink to dark pink...tats about all tanning can do in a stage of color blooming...if u want to transcend one level of colors, u must attack the scales when it is of the right timing...
The More the Better? - many users seem to think tat by adding as many light as possible infront of the red will make them red faster...in the contrary, this makes the red very jumpy and overly stressed up...In the end it will slow down the process...same logic in weights training, train with more weights doesnt guarantee powerful pecs if done in the slipslod manner
An Old saying,
there were 3 types of ppl
those who make things happened
those who see things happened
those who ask wat happened?
My theory is:
there were 3 kinds of red
those red tat no need light Can Make it
those red tat NEED Light to Make it
those red whose Owners think they CANNOT MAKE IT
Part 7: Water and its relation with reds
What is considered good water?
Water surface - no accumulation of bubbles at the water mark
In the water - no suspended particle
or in more scientific terms TDS readings....ORP readings could be used as a basic gauge for ur water parameters
Water circulation - A good gauge of the water circulation or flow should be observed by looking out for blind spots or dead spots...a space which water is stagnant is not beneficial for the reds although too much agitation of the water surface is also not recommeded
Filtration basis - Biological should be the primary concerns for reds as it is curcial for the bacteria colony to be able to handle the bioload without the need of too frequent water changes...too much changes to the overall water parameters stressed up the reds and impede the coloration cycle
Sometimes doesnt mean we need extremely clean water to keep gd reds, a gd reds being genetically superior will show their color even in a clear tank...the old method of bubble filter if the user is advanced enuff to observe water and tell the condition could be the most potent filter too...esp with the inclusion of sand as part of the filters
Reds is about STABILITY...
Part 8: Secrets of light
Color Warmth
I will say this one time and one time only...mimic the sun is not wat the tanning regime should do
if u want to use sunshine --> 6500k is sufficient but it will take u long time to see the difference or rather not much difference if u are doing it at the wrong timing too
my preferred kelvins is > 10k tats the range I operating on
Tanning duration:
Tanning is preferably be conducted over a period of 3 weeks minimum with 24 hrs full blast as the prime time zone...the initial startup phase will not be included...the initial phase will only lead the scales to slowly react to the effect of light
Tanning make use of light to stimulate the neurological emission of the color hormones
When to Stop:
The time to stop falls into 2 category:
1. Stress - if the red display too much stress and it has problems with coping with the extreme light...Do stop and go through ur checklist again and see wat needs to be finetune
a. Water? (check ur nitrates...if need wc do a 5%)
b. Timing? (is it the right time?)
c. Feeding? (Am I feeding too much?) Tanning and pumping cannot go hand in hand...there is only so much the red could do in a short span...concentrate on one task before trying to multitask the poor bugger
2. Enuff is Enuff - there is only so much to do to a specific level of color, there is an end to the tanning capability to push the colors...If users observe tat there are no "new" spots of colors appearing on rims or scales, its time to slowly step down the color intensity
Posted by Bad at 8:12 AM
Arowana breeding techniques
Arowana breeding may be better left to professionals, but if you are the type to take on nearly insurmountable challenges here is what is known.
NATURE..
In the wild, Arowana pair by natural selection spending weeks courting. A pair of Arowana will chase and bite each other's tail while courting, eventually together side by side and chasing off other fish before they finally breed. When the females is ready she will lay eggs on slow stream riverbeds, which will be up to 1/2" in diameter and are then fertilized by the male. The eggs are then scooped up by male Arowana and hatched in his mouth. The fry will begin to briefly leave the father's mouth slowly increasing their exposure to the outside world. There will be fewer Arowana than originally consumed. It is believed that the Arowana when startled sometimes accidentally swallows some of the young. During this time, the father will signal the fry when there is a sign of danger and they will immediately swim back immediately for safety. The babies will have a yolk sack that they will use until they are ready to feed on their own. The fry will leave the father when they are capable of surviving on their own. An exception is the Arapaimas who bury their eggs in the sand until they hatch.
TANK BREEDING
There were FEW records that Asian Arowana has been successfully bred in aquariums. Commercial breeders of Arowana usually use large earthen ponds. When breeding in earthen ponds, ten or more mature Arowana (half males, half females) are put into the pond and natural selection is allowed to take its course. The Arowana are observed carefully. When a pair is formed, they will chase the others away and started laying eggs. A net is then put in to segregate the pair from the other Arowana. When the fry are free swimming, they are netted and kept in rearing tanks. However, most aquarist do not have an earthen pond at home or live in a climate suitable to leaving them outside for several months.
At first not thought possible breeding Arowana in a tank has been acomplished, but much harder due their large size when mature. Many people around the world have started trying to breed Arowana in captivity, but it is nearly impossible. One successful aquaria breeder, Mr. Hiroshi is the most respected fish breeder in Japan. To accomplish his successful breeding in the aquarium environment, he first has access to pairs of adult Asian Arowana that have been successfully breed in pond condition. So the fish are already paired off, and have spawned once before moving into his tank. His basement is dedicated to fish breeding, which reduces the stress of the Arowana. He published the first article on captive breeding of Asian Arowana in 1992 after 20 years of research on this fish. (See the January, 1992 issue of TFH).
Arowana are mouthbrooders. Asian Arowana are hard to sex, especially when they are young. Sexual maturity depends on environmental conditions, but generally females takes 2-3 years and male 4-5 years to reach maturity.enerally, males are larger in size and fin then its female siblings, which give then a more arrogant look. It is believed that they also has wider and deeper jaw(to hold the eggs and fry). Females, on the other hand are smaller and have a more rounded body. It takes a lot of experience to sex mature Arowana, only when they start breeding will you be 100% sure.
There are two ways to pair up aowanas. By natural pairing or matching. Matching is inherently more dangerous as Arowana are territorial. They will inevitably fight if you keep two together. Their aggression decreases when the number of Arowana keep together increased to 6 or more. This is often not possible due to the high price of some species of Arowana. Also, remember that you will need a mighty big tank to hold 6 Arowana. The bigger the tank, the better, with 8'x2'x2' as the minimum.
NATURAL PAIRING - At least six mature Arowana are needed to have a reasonable chance of getting a pair. Young that have grown up together are preferable. If not, they should be placed into the the tank at the same time so that none will have chance to develop a territorial sense earlier then others.
Observe closely until a pair appears to have formed noted by the male swimming closely to the female and chasing the rest away. At this time remove the rest of the Arowana from the tank.
Courting will take place over a 1-2 months period. They will continue to swim closely together, often in circular motion, chasing and biting each other's tails and fins often cause injuries to the body as well. Females usually sustain more injuries, especially in anac fin, genital area and gill cover, possibly due to male trying to stimulate her hormonal secretion.
Their appetite will drop gradually, as the abdomen of the female will start to swell up and filled with eggs. An area, usually a less disturbed area with weak current, will be chosen to lay the eggs. Covering the spawning area of the tank if recommended to avoid disturbing or terminating the spawning due to stress.
At the time of egg release, they will then swim parallel to each other, rubbing against each other and occasionally stayed motionless. Eventually, they will stop swimming, but continue rubbing bodies until, with a sudden spasm, the female will release her eggs and simultaneously the male fertilizes by releasing his sperm. Spawning usually takes place in the afternoon with the number of eggs laid averaging 60 and being up to 1/2" in diameter. The male will immediately scoop up as many eggs as possible with the remainder usually eaten by the female.
During hatching period, female will start to chase the male, possibly violently. It is possible that the male might swallow some eggs accidentally during this chasing therefore it is a good idea to remove the female away at that time.
The yoke sac should be fully absorbed in around 60 days. The fry will then begin to leave the father's mouth, first briefly and slowly increase the duration. You should have a supply of baby guppies on hand at this stage. Once the fry begin to eat readily for a few days they can be removed from the parent. Use standard procedures mentioned in the care section.
MATCHING
This is risky. You should be confident that you have two Arowana of the opposite sex. This takes a lot of experience and should only be tried with extreme care. Arowana can and will fight to the death is paired improperly.
Condition the two Arowana with lots of live food. Put two fish into the breeding tank of at least 175 gallons with a transparent divider between them. Give them time to get accustomed to each other and continue to condition them at the same time.
After several weeks, remove the divider, and watch them carefully. They may be more violent than a pair formed by natural selection. When it gets too violent or fish are injured, put the divider back. Consider whether you may be wrong that they are of opposite sex or are not mature enough yet. If you still feel sure you have a pair give it a few more days and remove the divider again. If you have a pair, the two Arowana will show courting behavior as stated above. Spawning on will similar to natural pair.
Part 1: The Beginning of a New Start
Conditioning - it would be best to add some K leaves into the tank and increase the lighting intensity gradually over the days...users could use 3 / 6 / 9 / 12 / 24 hrs intervals as a guiding point
Slime Coat Observation - Slime coat is a physical marker for tanning users to observe the stress level of the reds in the tanning process...if users notice a substantial loss of slime coat, its best to add in some aloe vera extract or epsom salt in terms of restoring the protective coating for the reds
Part 2: The When, Where, What and How to go about Tanning
Size suitable for tanning - there is no specific sizes which is the minimum or maximum age for tanning. As long as there is a sign for blushing of colors can be observed on the red, it is deemed to be suitable for tanning.
Position and angle of lights - the recommended position and angle of tanning lights is at the front of the tank, about 5cm under water...or the best level to place the light is the zone where the red frequently swims
Types of tanning lights to use - there are various lights tat can be utilise for the purpose of tanning...namely to mention a few: Arcadia D3, PL lights, Dennerle plant tubes, T5HO and Metal Halide sets. Primarily it would be advisable to start with a PL light set as it is not too intense as the last few lights mentioned...
Part 3: Push up and Hold Up the colors
Push up colors - if the process of Identifying the color blush stage is accurate, tanning will enhance the process and quicken the process of coloration fill up...Fast or slow depends on the spectrum and intensity of tubes used
Hold Up of colors - Tanning is a stimulating process for the reds to enhance production of chromatophores...in layers and in terms of intensity...it is making use of the concept of contrasting...ie. it makes the base colors of the red intensity hence enabling the better distinction between the rim color and the scale base...Tanning process must not be abruptly halt or else users may see the immediate fade of the colors which was "pushed up" previously...all things being equal...it has to be slowed down and reduce in intensity until finally back to the use of normal room light to ensure the proper acclimatising and stablising of colors
Part 4: Frequent Encounters of problems if technique is used wrongly
Slant swimming posture - If the red is not accustomed to the lights to be used, users may observed their red swimming in a slant manner...the only way to counter this measure is to put a light tube at the back of the tank shinning front to make the two sides of the aro gets even lighting
Cloudy Eyes - this is one of the comments passed by a user, personally during my experiment with >10 pcs of reds altogether, it has never occurred. The primary assumptions which users must establish is to have Good water parameters. Cloudy eyes generally is associated with physical scratches or bad water conditions
Appetite Loss - This again has to do with the way the users acclimatise their reds to the tanning regime...if suddenly intensified lights are shone at them, weak-hearted reds will display stress and lose their appetite altogether
Blind?? - This is one of the commonly asked question with regards to the tanning regime...please bear in mind fish sleep with their eyes open...internally there would be filters to block off the excessive lights which may damaged their "cornea" (if they have one - sorry I am not a biologist cannot confirm on the cornea thingy)...up to date I have tested with various light set not exceeding 10,000 lumens equivalent of brightness, going beyond tat range I cannot guarantee safety...the general mkt equipment of PL, T8, T5 all falls below tat marking
Part 5: Additives and special tools
Ketapang leaves - these are needed in terms of the initial kick start process as the tanins within the leaves will slowly emit and allow the readjustment of the water parameters to one tat favours the reds
S7 - commonly used in the planted community together with TR7 so as to provide trace elements in the enclosed tank. This is also common with those trying to enhance the appetite of the reds (reds being picky eaters will be choosy and temperaments changes as they grow)
Bubbles - is used as general guide on how the tank water fares...too much foam on the water level is an indicative sign of potentially bad water...suspended sediments or particles likewise
Epsom Salt - Initial clinical use is to assist the fish to clear their stomach...it is also helpful in regeneration of slim coat on the scales...should not be used excessively...only when there are suspected "dryness" on the scales observed
Part 6: Myths and Fairy Tales
Color in 1 day?? - this is one of most tricky part of tanning which many would swear and curse...cos some would see their red deepening in terms of 1 week or 2 weeks or some in 3 mths no effect even when they are doing the same thing
the general rule of thumb as observed from the tanning experiment, a "normal" SR should come in color within 3 weeks...excluding the time u need to recondition the red if it was in a bad water parameters and ur current tank settings is one tat varies from day to day
If someone tells u they can push color in a day, they are playing with timing...cos one red tat shows sporadic coloration (spots along the rims of their scales) is easier to push than one tat is super whitish in base and scale
the tanning lights merely helps to PUSH out the color, the chromatophores is already existing there to be expounded on
Turn Red after tanning? - I have started tanning experiment in aid to give those so called Cannot Make It reds...its not a magical trick or Photoshop tactics
What tanning done is to amplify the melanophores (black pigments) on the scales making whatever light yellow to dark yellow, light orange to dark orange, light pink to dark pink...tats about all tanning can do in a stage of color blooming...if u want to transcend one level of colors, u must attack the scales when it is of the right timing...
The More the Better? - many users seem to think tat by adding as many light as possible infront of the red will make them red faster...in the contrary, this makes the red very jumpy and overly stressed up...In the end it will slow down the process...same logic in weights training, train with more weights doesnt guarantee powerful pecs if done in the slipslod manner
An Old saying,
there were 3 types of ppl
those who make things happened
those who see things happened
those who ask wat happened?
My theory is:
there were 3 kinds of red
those red tat no need light Can Make it
those red tat NEED Light to Make it
those red whose Owners think they CANNOT MAKE IT
Part 7: Water and its relation with reds
What is considered good water?
Water surface - no accumulation of bubbles at the water mark
In the water - no suspended particle
or in more scientific terms TDS readings....ORP readings could be used as a basic gauge for ur water parameters
Water circulation - A good gauge of the water circulation or flow should be observed by looking out for blind spots or dead spots...a space which water is stagnant is not beneficial for the reds although too much agitation of the water surface is also not recommeded
Filtration basis - Biological should be the primary concerns for reds as it is curcial for the bacteria colony to be able to handle the bioload without the need of too frequent water changes...too much changes to the overall water parameters stressed up the reds and impede the coloration cycle
Sometimes doesnt mean we need extremely clean water to keep gd reds, a gd reds being genetically superior will show their color even in a clear tank...the old method of bubble filter if the user is advanced enuff to observe water and tell the condition could be the most potent filter too...esp with the inclusion of sand as part of the filters
Reds is about STABILITY...
Part 8: Secrets of light
Color Warmth
I will say this one time and one time only...mimic the sun is not wat the tanning regime should do
if u want to use sunshine --> 6500k is sufficient but it will take u long time to see the difference or rather not much difference if u are doing it at the wrong timing too
my preferred kelvins is > 10k tats the range I operating on
Tanning duration:
Tanning is preferably be conducted over a period of 3 weeks minimum with 24 hrs full blast as the prime time zone...the initial startup phase will not be included...the initial phase will only lead the scales to slowly react to the effect of light
Tanning make use of light to stimulate the neurological emission of the color hormones
When to Stop:
The time to stop falls into 2 category:
1. Stress - if the red display too much stress and it has problems with coping with the extreme light...Do stop and go through ur checklist again and see wat needs to be finetune
a. Water? (check ur nitrates...if need wc do a 5%)
b. Timing? (is it the right time?)
c. Feeding? (Am I feeding too much?) Tanning and pumping cannot go hand in hand...there is only so much the red could do in a short span...concentrate on one task before trying to multitask the poor bugger
2. Enuff is Enuff - there is only so much to do to a specific level of color, there is an end to the tanning capability to push the colors...If users observe tat there are no "new" spots of colors appearing on rims or scales, its time to slowly step down the color intensity
Posted by Bad at 8:12 AM
Arowana breeding techniques
Arowana breeding may be better left to professionals, but if you are the type to take on nearly insurmountable challenges here is what is known.
NATURE..
In the wild, Arowana pair by natural selection spending weeks courting. A pair of Arowana will chase and bite each other's tail while courting, eventually together side by side and chasing off other fish before they finally breed. When the females is ready she will lay eggs on slow stream riverbeds, which will be up to 1/2" in diameter and are then fertilized by the male. The eggs are then scooped up by male Arowana and hatched in his mouth. The fry will begin to briefly leave the father's mouth slowly increasing their exposure to the outside world. There will be fewer Arowana than originally consumed. It is believed that the Arowana when startled sometimes accidentally swallows some of the young. During this time, the father will signal the fry when there is a sign of danger and they will immediately swim back immediately for safety. The babies will have a yolk sack that they will use until they are ready to feed on their own. The fry will leave the father when they are capable of surviving on their own. An exception is the Arapaimas who bury their eggs in the sand until they hatch.
TANK BREEDING
There were FEW records that Asian Arowana has been successfully bred in aquariums. Commercial breeders of Arowana usually use large earthen ponds. When breeding in earthen ponds, ten or more mature Arowana (half males, half females) are put into the pond and natural selection is allowed to take its course. The Arowana are observed carefully. When a pair is formed, they will chase the others away and started laying eggs. A net is then put in to segregate the pair from the other Arowana. When the fry are free swimming, they are netted and kept in rearing tanks. However, most aquarist do not have an earthen pond at home or live in a climate suitable to leaving them outside for several months.
At first not thought possible breeding Arowana in a tank has been acomplished, but much harder due their large size when mature. Many people around the world have started trying to breed Arowana in captivity, but it is nearly impossible. One successful aquaria breeder, Mr. Hiroshi is the most respected fish breeder in Japan. To accomplish his successful breeding in the aquarium environment, he first has access to pairs of adult Asian Arowana that have been successfully breed in pond condition. So the fish are already paired off, and have spawned once before moving into his tank. His basement is dedicated to fish breeding, which reduces the stress of the Arowana. He published the first article on captive breeding of Asian Arowana in 1992 after 20 years of research on this fish. (See the January, 1992 issue of TFH).
Arowana are mouthbrooders. Asian Arowana are hard to sex, especially when they are young. Sexual maturity depends on environmental conditions, but generally females takes 2-3 years and male 4-5 years to reach maturity.enerally, males are larger in size and fin then its female siblings, which give then a more arrogant look. It is believed that they also has wider and deeper jaw(to hold the eggs and fry). Females, on the other hand are smaller and have a more rounded body. It takes a lot of experience to sex mature Arowana, only when they start breeding will you be 100% sure.
There are two ways to pair up aowanas. By natural pairing or matching. Matching is inherently more dangerous as Arowana are territorial. They will inevitably fight if you keep two together. Their aggression decreases when the number of Arowana keep together increased to 6 or more. This is often not possible due to the high price of some species of Arowana. Also, remember that you will need a mighty big tank to hold 6 Arowana. The bigger the tank, the better, with 8'x2'x2' as the minimum.
NATURAL PAIRING - At least six mature Arowana are needed to have a reasonable chance of getting a pair. Young that have grown up together are preferable. If not, they should be placed into the the tank at the same time so that none will have chance to develop a territorial sense earlier then others.
Observe closely until a pair appears to have formed noted by the male swimming closely to the female and chasing the rest away. At this time remove the rest of the Arowana from the tank.
Courting will take place over a 1-2 months period. They will continue to swim closely together, often in circular motion, chasing and biting each other's tails and fins often cause injuries to the body as well. Females usually sustain more injuries, especially in anac fin, genital area and gill cover, possibly due to male trying to stimulate her hormonal secretion.
Their appetite will drop gradually, as the abdomen of the female will start to swell up and filled with eggs. An area, usually a less disturbed area with weak current, will be chosen to lay the eggs. Covering the spawning area of the tank if recommended to avoid disturbing or terminating the spawning due to stress.
At the time of egg release, they will then swim parallel to each other, rubbing against each other and occasionally stayed motionless. Eventually, they will stop swimming, but continue rubbing bodies until, with a sudden spasm, the female will release her eggs and simultaneously the male fertilizes by releasing his sperm. Spawning usually takes place in the afternoon with the number of eggs laid averaging 60 and being up to 1/2" in diameter. The male will immediately scoop up as many eggs as possible with the remainder usually eaten by the female.
During hatching period, female will start to chase the male, possibly violently. It is possible that the male might swallow some eggs accidentally during this chasing therefore it is a good idea to remove the female away at that time.
The yoke sac should be fully absorbed in around 60 days. The fry will then begin to leave the father's mouth, first briefly and slowly increase the duration. You should have a supply of baby guppies on hand at this stage. Once the fry begin to eat readily for a few days they can be removed from the parent. Use standard procedures mentioned in the care section.
MATCHING
This is risky. You should be confident that you have two Arowana of the opposite sex. This takes a lot of experience and should only be tried with extreme care. Arowana can and will fight to the death is paired improperly.
Condition the two Arowana with lots of live food. Put two fish into the breeding tank of at least 175 gallons with a transparent divider between them. Give them time to get accustomed to each other and continue to condition them at the same time.
After several weeks, remove the divider, and watch them carefully. They may be more violent than a pair formed by natural selection. When it gets too violent or fish are injured, put the divider back. Consider whether you may be wrong that they are of opposite sex or are not mature enough yet. If you still feel sure you have a pair give it a few more days and remove the divider again. If you have a pair, the two Arowana will show courting behavior as stated above. Spawning on will similar to natural pair.
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